.........if you're about to buy DRUMS or CYMBALS, keep in mind:

GEAR ACQUISITION

SET-UP & TUNING 

RESTORATION & REPAIR
USED SETS (when available)

PARTS, CYMBALS, ORPHANED DRUMS, etc., from his collection

PRIVATE LESSONS (all styles & levels)

I'll be happy to provide a free CONSULTATION, to help the "drum-buying challenged" in making wise purchasing decisions, no matter from where you purchase your gear, whether a STORE, or a PRIVATE PARTY.

Before you BUY:

If you are about to invest in new or used music gear (drums, etc.), especially in today's economy, I'm sure we can all agree that recovering most, if not ALL of our original expense from an equipment purchase is a good thing when the inevitable time comes to sell it again, (whether after 5 weeks, 5 months, or 5 years of use). Sooner or later an instrument's usefulness for you or your favorite musician will have expired. Perhaps you'll be wanting to upgrade or simply to move on to other things. When that time comes, wouldn't it be nice to know that you have not taken any kind of a seriously noticeable financial "hit"?          

Therefore, my recommendation, from much experience, is that you ensure the right move, by....                            .....finding the highest quality USED gear you can afford.  

This is especially true for CYMBALS.  Better just 1 HIGH quality cymbal than 3 crappy ones. You'll never regret it and you can always add on!

With new gear it's highly likely that you will lose over a third of your initial investment upon resale, even if it is only weeks after you bought it.

CORRECT SET-UP & TUNING of your equipment

I offer ON-SITE or IN HOME service of tuning your drums if needed.  Whether you bought new OR used gear, I can assisst you in setting it up correctly, for the student's height. If it's used gear in need of some "help", I can assess what it needs, to bring it up to standard.

Chances are about 80%, from what I've seen in my 14 years of teaching, that if you've got a beginning to intermediate drummer in the house, their equipment has probably been run down to the point of needing moderate to serious attention, or has possibly NEVER  been set up or tuned correctly. Well tuned drums sound and play infinitely better than ones that are out of tune and/or simply are in need of new drum heads.

Making good music will only happen if your gear is in top working condition and set-up, so that the player does not fatigue prematurely, due to forced, awkward posture, from incorrect positioning of their equipment.

Just like at the professional work place, why should good ergonomics be any less important on a drum set? When you're comfortable sitting at your set and it's sounding good, you're likely to play longer and better.

Feel free to take advantage of my IN HOME service---you won't regret it !

While I'm there, I can probably even do a little "mini drum lesson" at that time, too, if you'd like.

SERVICE & REPAIR

While DISCOUNTS are a key attraction for shoppers at the larger national music chains or on-line sources, most musicians would agree that this type of sales environment often lacks UNHURRIED, PERSONALIZED   1-on-1 SERVICE, including thorough product knowledge and ability to SERVICE IT (an actual work-bench or shop-like situation).

When it comes to needing a true "service-department" for drums........ it seems that this is practically a thing of the past.

So........if YOU have gear that needs REPAIR or you need advice,  Al, "the drum-guy" aims to fill this void with years of knowledge and virtually immediate HANDS-ON service.

EQUIPMENT -- New or Used.......

When it comes to buying NEW or USED drum sets & accessories, Al either has access to it, or can assist you in finding the right quality gear for your purposes, even at prices that compete with the major stores and on-line sources.

If you're missing that one special repair piece, mount, piece of hardware or that one drum, just ask Al, and there may be a chance he has the right item for you from his years of collecting parts and accessories and orphaned individual drums.

DRUM LESSONS

Al offers private lessons in his home studio, for all ages & ability levels and even ON-SITE lessons, delivered right to your Home or facility. Please see the "LESSONS" tab from my HOME page, and check out the "student agreement".

Thanks for visiting this page!!

THE "BUGET CRUNCH" for buying any USED DRUM SET:

THIS IS AN EYE-FULL OF INFORMATION, AND BELOW IT JUMPS AROUND A LITTLE, AND SINCE I'VE WRITTIEN THIS IN SEVERAL INSTALLMENTS, YOU MAY EVEN FIND SOME DUPLICATE INFORMATION, (but that only reinforces the stuff you should be looking out for).  BUT IT IS A MUST-READ, ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE ABOUT TO SPEND ANY MONEY ON EQUIPMENT. My focus is for when considering purchase of AN ENTIRE DRUM SET.

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As a drum instructor, I am regularly asked by parents or students (or whoever is paying for the necessary drum gear), as for what to buy and how much to expect to have to budget for that purchase. 

Please consider that when you find “a deal” , let’s say, $200 (+/- $50), on what someone is calling  a drum “set “……… then I can virtually assure you from decades of experience, that unless you really know what you're doing, you're more likely buying the "opportunity" to make lots of trips to the music store for parts, pieces, drum heads etc., or worse...for CYMBALS and major hardware.  After that, you have to put it all together, assuming you know what you’re doing with drums (tuning, repairs, set-up, etc.) Let me explain:

Consider this as you shop:  First of all, don’t set your heart on what I call “FERRARI” expectations while shopping in the price range of a “Datsun”.

To get out of the "starter" range, into a decent “mid grade” set with cymbals & hardware, you should expect to be in the $400 to  $700 range, depending on what’s included and of course, it’s overall condition.

"You always get what you pay for" is true for drums just the same, unless you happen to stumble on someone's grandfather's American made set with Turkish cymbals, AND......they don't know that they're giving it away too cheap, AND....someone else has not beat you to it.

Otherwise your find is likely to be a "off brand" or "no name" set, which is usually equipped with cheap and easily dented drum-heads and even worse cymbals.  No-name drums are not necessarily bad, since the shells are all fairly well made these days and with good heads, (about $1.25 per inch of diameter per drum), except on bass drum, where it's more expensive), they can be made to sound and function almost like the best drums available.  The hardware that makes the drums function is another issue of quality that gets compromised, and sometimes severely on the bottom of the line drums. That can be a problem (pedals breaking or othewise mal-functioning, cheaper metal = threads stripping on cymbal stands and tom holder mechanisms is very common). New Cymbal stand $30 to $50, New Hi Hat stand $50 to $100, New Bass pedal $35 to $150, New Snare Stand $35 to $100.  New Hi Hat Clutch (if needed) $10 to $20

So......lower line drums  = ok WHEN THEY HAVE GOOD HEADS. 

What to look for in the BASIC HARDWARE on a used set:

Lower line hardware=ok, if not touring with it and it all functions properly (cymbal stands telescope properly, cymbal tilter tops have washer, bushing, 2 felts and a wing nut and keep the firm at any angle, their threads not stripped on the main tube junctions, The Hi hat stand operates smoothly and maintains a gap between the cymbals  when pedal is not depressed. It has a COMPLETE hi hat CLUTCH, (the part that holds the upper cymbal to the pull-rod).... which should consist of the main body, two upper lock nuts, a bottom nut and two felts. (Don't ask me why or how on this point because it's baffled me for decades as one who simply takes care of his gear, but "good luck" on finding a complete clutch. Most drummers mess that one up reeeeely bad, and soon after buying it brand new).  The bass pedal has little to no side-to-side play on the main foot board and is not squeaky or crunchy sounding when operating it, and it attaches solidly to the hoop of the bass drum with a wing nut below the pedal. Snare stand adjusts properly and high (or low) enough for the player.

THIS IS A BIGGIE:  Drums are not missing bottom hoops, heads, or tension screws for any of the drums, which, if so.....that's really bad, because the wood gets chewed up on the side of the missing head and if you ever replace those pieces (not cheap either by the time you piece it all back together), then the sound will be compromised severely with bad "bearing edges" which is basically the bevel of the edge of the wood shell, from which the drum head derives it's vibration.

CYMBALS:

So back to STARTER  sets. Most of them, unless they actually do include what I call “playable” mid-grade cymbals……not the super junky starter types that are pressed out of sheets of bronze, which are prone to dent, ding and warp, starting on literally the first time they’re struck and EVERY time after………then those “sets” should be rated for value of what you should pay, based on ONLY the value of the actual drums and included hardware, if it looks like it might hold up for another couple of years with normal use.

Just to put it into perspective, on a “Ferrari” drum set, just ONE professional quality Ride Cymbal alone costs about $325 new and $150 in the used market. Again, that’s what pros. pay for ONLY the cymbal. If someone who owns a DW brand drum set wants to add the smallest tom tom (8"), they pay $400 or more for ONE tom......seriously!!

Decent “mid grade” cymbals that hold up for learning likely include: Sabian B8, Paiste 302, 402, 502, Zildjian ZXT and better (NOT ZBT…those are crap and they still dent easily), Wuhan, Agazarian Camber, Solar, Pearl and a few others.

Otherwise, prepare to count on an additional investment of about $150 to $200 for “starter packs” of some of the more known (name brand) cymbals mentioned above, if you're buying new (which I don't recommend). In the used market, the same cymbal set (a 20" ride, a 16" crash and a 14" or 13" set of hi hats should cost about $150, but you'd get more cymbals than in a $150 starter set, which usually only contains an 18" Crash/Ride and one set of 13" Hi hat cymbals.

With very few exceptions, most “bargain” sets I have helped fix up for my students, have needed attention in ALL those areas.

So hopefully you can now understand that while the initial price $200 may seem attractive, in no time your "I-got-a-good-deal"  feeling will fade rapidly once you find yourself on the 2nd or 3rd trip to the music store, where you're getting reamed for all the parts/pieces/drum-heads, etc., which you are likely to need.

 PLUS you have to know what you're doing to fix it correctly. If you're not familiar with some of the quirks of correct assembly of some of the components of the setup, you (and your little prodigy) will get frustrated. You with not knowing how it fits together, and your student with the still-not-functional equipment when you got something backwards OR upside down.  CORRECT DRUM TUNING and ERGONOMIC SETUP is also key and based on the player's height.

THE BOTTOM LINE ON BUYING USED DRUM SETS:

Look ahead for your possible TOTAL COST, after replacing cymbals that are NOT the type that become disfigured from normal playing. Then look WAY AHEAD, to see if you can envision getting 80 to 100% of your investment back if you take good care of it and pretty much sell it in the condition it is at it's best, while you had it.

IF YOU NEED HELP WITH YOUR GEAR OR WITH FINDING IT:

What I usually do when I have a set going past my nose is that I first evaluate it for what needs to go into it, in terms of parts and labor. If it looks like it's still going to be a good deal for someone, after taking care of all issues, then I am likely to take it on.
This way, if a new student of mine--or sometimes another private party buys it (if I decide to put it on Craigslist), they can get a playable set with likely better components at below the price of a new "starter" set, which inevitably is still going to have to be upgraded within a few months (replacing crappy stock heads and entry-level cymbals).

When I apply my 35 years of drumming and 15 years of drum repair experience to go through that set, it ends up in the best condition possible for being a used set and is ready to go into action, so as to get the next musician on it through the next 5 years. After that, the set will STILL hold 80% of the value of what they paid for it, even with drum heads that are moderately USED at that time (however heads are always a good thing to REPLACE before selling a set, as it really is the only thing that wears and just makes it present so much better). The return with new heads can easily be closer to 100% of your initial investment. That is, if you if you don't abuse/kick/scrape the cosmetic side of your gear, or let it rust and de-laminate in a damp basement.

Most sets you find in the under $200 range are normally also the same type of sets you get at Costco, Target or Wal-Mart, which have horrible components and get reduced to Good Will material in about 3 months or less.

A price range you should expect for a STARTER SET that's complete, with drums, cymbals, hardware and seat is anywhere between $250 and $350. And at that price, while it's nice if it happens to be one of the top name brands which all the well meaning drummers in your life may recommend that you should look for, you should however not set your expectations on any of those names in a $200 budget range.

Most sets, even when they're bought new and are RECOGNIZED NAME BRANDS, and cost up to $1200---often JUST for the drums and hardware alone...w/o Cymbals---even those will generally be CHINESE made sets. China's comittment to BRAND is only seen by way of a STICKER which is put on the drum shells, under a different name for each of the distributors that carry that set. The same set from one or two factories over there could be shipped out under 25 different names.

It's all pretty much going to be the same quality of set, which is going to have a "mid-grade" set of cymbals, if the original, stock cymbals have not been upgraded. For cymbal pricing, keep in mind that ONE new, professional level 20" ride cymbal costs someone like me about $225 to $400 new and $125 to $225 used, just to put things into perspective. I do not recommend buying a NEW set, since just like buying a new car, you lose a big chunk of it's value, the minute you buy it. The more playing time, along with nicks and scrapes it gets, the less it's worth.

So you may as well buy a used set (if pride is not too terribly hurt by that) and get 5 years of "use-value" even if you lose $35 in resale. It beats rental by a long shot and surely beats buying a newer set for $400, which is still pretty much a low-end set. $375 to $400 is a price range for stores, which allows them to present a "new" and "complete" set, but realistically, they know that in less than 3 months you'll be back for another $200 Starter pack of cymbals, since the ones that come with a $400 set are going to be pulverized in about 4 weeks.

Bottom line is this. Buy the best cymbals you can afford (but BUY THEM USED, since those will NEVER go down in value), and put them on a functional drum set....one you can afford, one you can live with looking at, but one that has good used ones or brand NEW drum-heads on it.

Here is a rough layout of the various qualities of drums and cymbals, both for new and used. STARTER LEVEL-to-MID GRADE CYMBALS: NEW : USED: 20" RIDE (necessary) $80-$120 $45-85 16" CRASH (necessary) $45-$65 $30-60 18" CRASH (optional) $55-$70 $35-70 14" HI-HATS (necessary) $65-$100 $40-80 New cymbals are often sold in "packages" From $140 to $200 (depending on quality level and number of cymbals included), that often include a cymbal bag, however those cymbals are hardly worth their investment.

I would rather see someone spend $140 on one PROFESSIONAL set of used Hi Hat cymbals, which will forever be worth $140 in re-sale or Trade. STARTER LEVEL-to-MID GRADE DRUM SETS: NEW : USED: 5pc starter set with crappy cymbals: $350-$400 150-$250 but usually are "challenged" 5pc mid grade set with "ok" cymbals $500-$650 275-450 5pc UPPER mid grade sets (often sold as "shell packs", which include NO hardware, like Snare, Hi-hat & cymbal stands or a bass pedal and seat: NEW: $475-$675.

I can probably cut off the discussion for quality about here, other than to say that a fully professional 5pc drum set can sell for up to $4000-$5000 for JUST THE DRUMS, with no hardware, if that puts it all into perspective.

sincerely, Al